Latvia- Riga

1. Havaalanından çıktığınızda otoparkın ilerisinde otobüs durağı var. 22 numaralı otobüs şehre gidiyor. Ancak havaalanından çıkmadan paranızı mutlaka bozdurun. Bilet 1 lat’tan ucuz ve otobüs şoförleri çoğunlukla 10 lat ve üzeri paraları bozmuyor.
2. Riga’nın pahalı olduğu söylenir ama doğru değil. Alışveriş yapmayacak, yemek yiyecek ve etrafı gezecekseniz Riga’daki rakamlar son derece makul. Güzel bir yemek yaklaşık 10 euro'ya mal oluyor. (Et için Bibar’ı öneririm.)

3. Lido adlı mekan Latvia yemekleri yapan bir tür orsa lokantası. Fiyatlar uygun, yemekler lezzetli. Yeri Katedralin orada. Terbetas iela ile Elizabetes iela’nın köşesi.
4. İçkilerin fiyatı en lük yerle en ucuz yer arasında olsa olsa 1 lat fark ediyor.
5. Skyline bar, radisson’un 26. Katı, katedralden düz devam edilince ulaşılıyor –zaten cam bina, yüksek, görmemek mümkün değil. Kokteyller 5 lat, bira 2 lat. Giysi koşulu yok. Manzara 360 derece ve inanılmaz.

6. Haziran’da güneş gece 12’de batıyor. Dalgaya düşmeyin.
7. Old town iyi hoş ama Küçük Moskova’yı, bit pazarını –fotoğraf çekmek yasak- Art Nouva bölgesini ihmal etmeyin. Hepsi yürüme mesafesi.
8. Erkeklere not: Tanımadığınız kızlarla hiçbir yere gitmeyin. Tanıdığınız –birkaç kere gördüğünüz- kızlarla da hiçbi,r yere gitmeyin. Burada olduğum dönemde barlara gidip soyulanları mı görmedim, ara sokaklara çekilip herşeyleri gasp edilenler, sabah sokakta uyananlar… Riga tehlikeli değil ama karı-kız peşine düşerseniz astarı yüzünden pahalıya gelebilir. Burada da bizdeki pavyonlarda yapılan sık sık yapılıyor, hesap geldiğinde bir anda kızın şampanyalarının parasını ödemeniz gerektiğini öğreniyorsunuz –ya da dayak yiyorsunuz.
9. Bir kulüpte –bazı kulüplerde- bir kızın gelip kucağınıza oturması mümkün. Yapılacak en iyi şey, nazikçe kızdan kalkmasını rica etmek. Cebinizdeki bütün parayı kaptırsanız bile bu kızlar kimseyle yatmıyor, bu da bir dip not.
10. Gece 12’de sokakta tek başıma dolaştım, Old Town tarafında hiçbir şey olmuyor. Ama Little Moskow biraz riskli. (Yine de kadınlar için fazla bir risk yok. Asıl tehlikede olan erkekler.)

11. Sınırda bolca soru soruyorlar –neden geldin, ne zaman gideceksin vb ama sabrınızı kaybetmezseniz bir sorun çıkmıyor.
12. Ucuz yemek –Pelmeni –mantıcı. Neli mantı isterseniz var, kuzuyu tavsiye ederim. Her yerde bu lokantadan var. 2 lat’a deli gibi yiyebiliyorsunuz. Self-servis.

Z. Heyzen Ateş

HİKÂYE 2

Üniversite yolundan eve dönüyorum. Hava temiz. Yağmur sonrası. Veya belki bir sonraki yağmurun hemen öncesi. Bu ülkeyle ilgili söylenebilecek en olağan sözlerden biri.

Etraf ağaç dolu. Bu ülkeyle ilgili söylenebilecek en olağan sözlerden ikincisi. Meşe olduğunu zannettiklerimin meşe olmadığını öğrendim, çam zannettiklerim de çam değilmiş. Yolun üzerindeki ağaçlardan birine gözüm takılıyor ve kendimi onun çınar olup olmadığını düşünürken buluyorum.

Ağacın dibindeki kutu uzun süre dikkatimi çekmiyor.

Gördüğümde zihnim bu bilgiyi algılamakta zorluk yaşıyor. Önce çöp olabileceğini düşünüyorum ama beynim bu ihtimali hemen geçiyor. Burası Zelanda. Evsizlerin bile çöplerini ayıklayarak attığı ve topladığı ülke. Yol kenarına bırakılmış bir kutu çöp olamaz.

Yol kenarına bırakılmış bir kutu olsa olsa yol kenarına bırakılmış bir kutu olabilir.

Kutunun yanına gidiyorum. Maun olabilir. (Ya da belki çam, çınar, meşe.) Üstünde çizikler var. Kapağı sağlam. Kilidi kırık değil ama açık. Kapağın tam olarak yerine oturmamasından anlaşılıyor.

Türkiye’de olsam bomba olması ihtimaliyle polisi aramak aklımdan geçerdi.

Zelanda’da uçağa binerken pasaportunuzu veya kimliğinizi bile sormuyorlar.

Bomba olabileceği ancak bu yazıyı yazmaya başladığımda aklıma geliyor. Auckland’da olmaya fazlasıyla alışmış olmalıyım.

Enfes bir kutu. Birinin ondan vaz geçmiş olması şaşırtıcı. Birinin kutuyu ağacın dibinde unuttuğu teorisini inanılabilir bulmuyorum. Onu alabilir miyim?

Onu açabilir miyim?

Yağmur yeni kesildiği için sokak boş. Ama saat yediden sonra üniversite yolu zaten tenha olan yollardan. Kötü bir hafta geçirdim. Kötü bir üç hafta geçirdim. Yanlış karar üstüne yanlış karar. O yüzden kutuyla ilgili kararı tek başıma vermek istemiyorum.

Sokağın boş olması işimi kolaylaştırmıyor çünkü her hangi birine sorabilirdim.

Kutularla ilgili otorite olan bir tanıdığım yok. Her hangi biri işimi görürdü.

Aç ya da açma demeye gönüllü her hangi biri işimi görürdü.

Ya da belki yazı tura atardık.

Benimkisi ahlaki bir tereddüt değil. Yoğurdu üfleyerek yemenin birkaç tahtası eksik geri kalan tahtaları sallanan bir beyin tarafından yorumlanıp içselleştirilmiş hali.

Cep telefonumu çıkarıyorum. Şarjı bitmek üzere. Kimi arayacağımı düşünürken dikkatim dağılıyor. Bugün Massive Attack konserine gidecektim.

Şu anda Massive Attack konserinde leyla oluyor olmam gerekirdi.

Bunun yerine ağacın dibindeki maun kutuyu anlamlandırmaya çalışıyorum. (Kimse itiraz edecek konumda olmadığına göre edebi estetik ve kulak dolgunluğu adına kutuyu maun olarak vaftiz ediyorum.)

Yoldan geçen arabalardan birindeki adam yasadışı bir şey yapıyormuşum gibi bana bakıyor.

Ona fikrini sorma ihtimalini hemen zihnimden siliyorum. (İhtimal hesabı yapacak olsak benim vereceğimden daha doğru bir karar vereceğinin ortaya çıkacağını bilsem de onu gözüm tutmadı. Zaten beni gözü tutmayanları gözüm tutmaz.)

Kiwiler anlayışlı insanlar ve nezaket geleneğine sahipler ama kime kutu danışırsın derseniz İsveçliler veya Güney Amerikalılar daha kutudan anlar insanlarmış gibi geliyor bana.

Aklıma ev arkadaşıma yeşil çay alacağıma dair söz verdiğim geliyor. Hayati önem taşıyan bir söz değil ama çaysız dönünce güvenilirliğim ciddi ölçüde sarsılacak. Çinli bir kız. Kutu meselesini anlayacağını sanmıyorum.

Kore marketi yolun hemen aşağısında. Yol bomboş. Kutunun döndüğümde de orada olacağına eminim. Ama saat sekizi bulursa Auckland’daki her yer gibi marketin de kapanması ihtimali var. Uzak doğuluların yerleri diğerlerinden daha uzun süre açık kalıyor ama beyaz adamın 5’te paydos ettiği bir ülkede “daha uzun” fazla bir anlam taşımıyor.

Maun kutudan ve meşe olmayan ağaçtan birkaç metre uzaklaştığımda şehir merkezine doğru yürüyen şemsiyeli bir kız görüyorum. Bir saniyeliğine göz göze geliyoruz. Kutumu alır mı?

Ona kutunun benim olduğunu, ona dokunmamasını söylemek istiyorum.

Kutunun benim olamaması birşeyi değiştirmiyor. Onu çabucak sahiplendim. Mal bulanındır. Onu bırakırsam ve başkası bulursa, o zaman onun mu olur? Hayır, kimseye bırakmaya niyetim yok ama zihnimde hala mantıklı olan bir köşe bana kıza kutuyla olan ilişkim konusunda detaylı bir açıklama geçmemin akıl karı olmadığını söylüyor. Zaten artık çok geç. Onunla konuşmak için geri dönmem gerek –ki dönemem. O zaman gerçekten deli olduğumu düşünür.

Elinde şemsiye varken kutuyu taşımasının zor olacağını söyleyerek kendimi ikna edip Kore marketine gidiyorum. Yolda bir iki kişiyle daha karşılaşıyorum ama onlar bende kızın yarattığı tedirginliği yaratmıyor.

Döndüğümde kutu yerinde yok.

Birkaç hafta sonra aynı kızı sahilde görüyorum. Yanında sevgilisi var. Ya da sevgilisini aldattığı erkek –ama çok ortalıktalar. İnsan sevgilisini aldatacak olsa bu kadar orta yerde yapmaz. (Yine, burası Zelanda. Aldatma mevhumunun suyunu çıkarmış bir ülke.)

Bir an için beni gördüğünde eminim. Kafasını çeviriyor, denizle ilgileniyormuş gibi yapıyor. Bu kaçınma jesti; inkâr hoşuma giden bir iletişim içeriyor.

Birbirine tamamen yabancı iki insanın paylaştığı garip bir samimiyet anı.

Kendi yönlerimize yürüyüp gidiyoruz.

Hikaye

Kadın yüksek sesle kağıtta yazanları okuduğu sırada gözleri sayfadaki tüm ışığı öğüten iki kara delikti. Bitirdiğinde her yan kararmıştı –artık harflerin arasında boşluk yoktu.

“Hepsi benimle ilgili,” dedi adam hıçkıra hıçkıra ağlayarak. Karanlığı bölmeyi denedi. Omuzları, ölmekte olan bir hayvanın kasları gibi sarsıldı.

“Hepsi bir hikaye,” dedi kadın kağıtları elinde tutmayı sürdürerek.

Yıldızlar hizaya girdi, sayfalar yeniden ışıkla doldu. Göz yaşları kararan ayın sertleşen amberinde yaşamayı sürdürdü.

Amber fosilleşmiş ağaç özüdür, diye hatırladı adam görünmez ağacın köklerine tutunmaya çalışırken.

Gece çürümekte olan bir organizma gibi kendi içine kapandı.

“Sadece bir hikayeydi, endişelenmene gerek yok,” diye tekrarladı adamın göz bebeklerine dokunan kadın ve kağıtları bir daha eline almamak üzere kaldırdı.

Yeni Zelanda Notları # Auckland

1. Shuttle servisi –supershuttle- kapıya kadar ama binmeden pazarlık etmek en doğrusu. Yoksa can yakıcı rakamlar ödemeniz gerekebilir. Araçlar havaalanının kapısının önünde duruyor. Ayrıca içeride bilet alınmıyor.
   
2. NZ cilt kanseri oranının en yüksek olduğu ülkelerden biri ve nedeni de belli yani boşuna riske girmeyin ve bolca güneş kremi sürün.
3. Auckland ve çevresinde pek çok sönmüş yanardağ var. En yenileri 500 yıl önce denizden çıkan Rangitoto. Tepeye tırmanış oldukça zorlu, yolun bir kısmı çölde saatlerce yürümek gibi. Toprak ısıyı yansıttığından cehennem sıcağında tırmanmak gerekiyor. Ama deneyimsiz tırmanıcılar bile yeterince azimle başarabilir. Bolca su almakta fayda var, adada su satılan –veya herhangi bir şey satılan- hiçbir yer yok. Gemide alışveriş yapmak mümkün ama yola çıkmadan malzemeleri çantaya atmak en iyisi.
4. Lava mağaraları adanın en ilginç yerlerinden . İşaretlere dikkat edildiği sürece tehlikeli veya zor değiller. Ama yanınıza fener almazsanız ilerleyemezsiniz,
5. Skytower kenarında yürüyüş ancak atlayacaksanız ilginç. Yoksa korkutucu bir yanı yok ve manzara da –skytower’ın görülmemesi hariç- çarpıcı değil. Eden dağı, bu açıdan daha cazip.
6. Yeni Zelanda’da eğer resmi bir tatil günü haftasonuna denk gelirse, o tatil sonraki ilk iş gününe kaydırılıyor. Yani tatil günü tatil günüyle yanmamış oluyor. Enfes bir uygulama.
7. Musluk suyu içilebiliyor.
8. Saat 7’de buluşalım demek saat 7’de buluşalım demek. 8 veya 7’ye çeyrek kala değil.

Z. Heyzen Ateş

Belgrad - Belgrade

SkyLife - November 2007
Article: Z. HEYZEN ATEŞ

The white city

Serbia's capital Belgrade is a city where old and new, architecture and nature intermingle at the confluence of two rivers.

A common feature of cities that go way back in history is that they are located near water. So it's not difficult to imagine why Belgrade, situated at the confluence of two rivers, suffered so many invasions throughout history and hosted first one culture and then another in rapid succession. Deemed a gift of the gods to the Earth in the Stone Age, the Sava and the Danube were this city's eternal guarantee of survival. What then? Then came the Celts, the Romans, the Bulgars, the Byzantines, the Ottomans, Austria, Yugoslavia and Serbia, all of whom left traces here.

Its almost six-thousand-year past spread out beneath your feet, Belgrade is a city that has defended itself against countless threats, holding its own against time, governments and natural disasters. A city whose nobility lies in its rebellion against authority. With its social and touristic fabric, it has drawn a lot of attention recently and makes an attractive alternative for travelers who expect something different from the usual touristic offerings.

PLACE OF ESCAPE

Speaking of cities whose history dates far back, cities that have managed to defend themselves against dozens of wars, albeit in tatters, a person has trouble deciding exactly where to start. I would suggest that you take a chronological approach and begin with the Kalemegdan, which dates to the 1st century and is regarded as the city's historic center. Originally built by the Romans in the first century A.D., Belgrade Fortress was later restored many times, most notably by the Byzantines and the Ottomans. By the 1980's the area around it had been turned into a park and the fortress itself converted into a haven both for foreign tourists and for locals looking to spend a quiet weekend. With its fortress and military museums, the Cvijeta Zuzoric for art buffs, its zoo and its restaurants, Kalemegdan is a must-see if you go to Belgrade.

Gazing down on the city from above, the fortress makes an impressive appearance rendered even more interesting by a folk legend which has it that the hill is covered with dungeons dating back to the Roman period. When you enter the fortress, you can see for yourself the Roman Well, whose existence corroborates the legend. If you drop a coin into it, you won't be able to hear it hit bottom. What could be better than a bottomless well for making wishes? If you're going to spend some time in Belgrade, you should also see Kalemegdan by night. With the illumination, you'll feel you're visiting a completely different place.

AN ARCHITECTURAL FEAST

If you head straight for the heart of the city, it makes sense to follow the Knez Mihajlova, an avenue closed to vehicle traffic. You can't miss it. There is one thing almost all the world's big cities have in common: a central pedestrian zone. In Belgrade this is the Knez Mihajlova or, if you have a map in English, Prince Michael or Mikhailo Avenue, the venue of choice for shopping or a coffee break. For one thing, if you've gone into the city, you don't have to choose a street or a direction because there's something to see no matter which way you go. Belgrade boasts examples of every architectural movement that has ever swept Europe. Classical, neoclassical, Baroque… you can even find Art Nouveau buildings here. Consequently, wherever you happen to be in the city you should not only watch where you're stepping but also look up as you walk to see the facades of the buildings above the shops and cafes. Skadarlija (Skadarska Street in the old city), the Old Palace, St. Michael's Cathedral, the Vuk Foundation, the old post office on Kosovsa Street, St. Mark's Church, a work of the Petar and Branko Krstic brothers built over the former Gracanika Monastery, the Serbian Parliament building and Sveti Sava Temple are just some of the must-see buildings that have managed to survive.

A CITY REBORN

Belgrade's network of streets and squares was entirely re-designed in the 19th century and the areas around the squares reorganized like those of other old European cities. The oldest of these squares is Republic Square, created by demolishing the 18th century Stambol Gate built by the Habsburgs. The National Theater, designed by Alexander Bugarski, and the statue of Prince Mikhailo Obrenovic by the Florentine architect Enrico Pazzi might also be of interest to those who want to explore the city in more detail. Unfortunately most of the buildings in this part of the city were irreparably damaged in the Second World War and, deemed beyond restoration, were eventually razed. Some of the old

bomb depots on the other hand were converted into kebab shops, and the bomb shelters taken over for other purposes. When you to go Belgrade you are not going to believe that this was once a city where black-market kerosene was sold in cans. Its once dark nights are full of life and gay adventure now.

NIGHTS ON THE DANUBE

Once a separate city but joined now to the Serbian capital, Zemun is a popular town on the banks of the Danube. Beyond the fact that it's the talk of all Europe, hilltop Zemun is a perfect choice for those who have come to tour Belgrade. Outside yet near the city, it boasts Baroque architecture, narrow streets and 18th century houses. And of course the 'splavovi' or floating nightclubs that host around 280,000 tourists a year. Some of them also serve dinner, but most people go just for the entertainment while floating on the river. The splavs could be said to be Belgrade's answer to Paris's Bateaux-Mouches. I would recommend that you board one to watch the sunrise or sunset in Belgrade.

TASTES OF BELGRADE

But let's turn now to my favorite part, the food. Like Balkan cuisine, Serbian fare exhibits traits of Ottoman and Germano-Hungarian cooking. The kebabs known as 'Cevapcici' are the most popular. This is a cuisine big on meats and sauces in general. For breakfast you can eat savory 'burek' or 'pogacice' and sample the delicious jams. For lunch I would recommend something light like one of the two soups, supa or corba, and for dinner a traditional 'rostilj', or grilled meat with beer.

In step with the times, Belgrade has shed its weary past and thrown itself night and day into the arms of the new age. By its real name, Belgrade, the White City, it awaits those who prefer to visit cities not overrun with tourists.

Khartoum

Capital of a hot land

Khartoum

By Zeynep Heyzen Ateş

(Skylife-2006)

Situated at the confluence of the Blue Nile and the White Nile, Sudan’s capital Khartoum is an exotic destination, and a unique capital set smack in the middle of widely divergent cultures.

Khartoum is one of Africa’s least ‘in’ cities. Yet, although it has languished in the background due to an unfortunate and long-standing prejudice, not to mention the fact that it is overshadowed touristically by its northern neighbor Egypt, as of 2006 it has proved itself a boom town that needs to be watched closely. Not taking a backseat to Africa’s more popular cities in terms of either its location or its historic texture, Khartoum promises a fascinating destination to travelers eager for something different.

AT THE CONFLUENCE

Situated at the confluence of the Blue Nile, which turns westward after Ethiopia, and the White Nile, which turns northward after Uganda, on lands known as ‘the Mogran’, the city throughout its history has enjoyed the advantages of having been founded in this singular geography. The Nile actually flows to Egypt through Sudan; and although the Egyptians have managed to turn Nile cruises into a touristic activity par excellence, such excursions are still a novelty for Sudan and Khartoum. My comparison at the outset of Khartoum with Egypt and the cities of Egypt has to have struck you; nor is the comparison based solely on coincidence or neighborly proximity. Khartoum was founded in 1821 to create an auxiliary base in Egypt, then under Ottoman rule. Conducive to trade, it developed quickly and, following ten years of clashes between the British and the Egyptians, finally emerged as the free city of a free country in 1956.

INVITATION TO A SUDANESE WEDDING

As with war-torn lands in general, certain truths hold for Khartoum. Most of the hundreds of historical sites have not escaped this century of unrest unscathed. With a few exceptions such as the Great Mosque, an ancient one and an example of Ottoman architecture, urbanization can be said to have obliterated almost all traces of the past. With its three-lane roads, Khartoum to the superficial glance appears little different from modern western cities. I am referring of course to the central districts. If you venture a little further out, into the rural areas, or go down to Al Jirif or Arrakhma, you can see the human chaos caused by flight, and the refugees living in their shacks reminiscent of the South African townships. To put it bluntly, Sudan is a country with a wide gulf between the moneyed classes and the impoverished sector. But what most amazes in this city is the friendliness of the inhabitants. If there happens to be a wedding and you want to get a closeup of what’s going on inside, don’t hesitate to ask. You’ll be invited in immediately! Communication on the other hand may not be so easy. While English may be spoken in the shopping centers and restaurants, you might have to resort to sign language most other places.

WRESTLING OVERSHADOWS SOCCER

I’ve visited many a city and seen many a strange phenomenon, but few of them can compare with Nubian wrestling. On the one hand it resembles wrestling as we know it; on the other it has a different air about it, both in terms of the venue where it is practiced and the people who come to watch. In Khartoum and throughout Sudan in general, it is as important as soccer is in most other countries. You should definitely follow the signs in the streets and stop in at one of the venues where the matches are held. Even if the wrestling itself doesn’t grab you, you’ll find it extremely interesting to observe the people.

NUBIA’S GEMS

Nubia is a key part of Sudan’s history and geography, and the Nile valley and environs and the Nubian Desert are extremely rich in historic monuments –ancient Egyptian, Coptic, even more archaic –whatever you want. What’s more, to see them you don’t even have to brave the desert heat. Most of the artifacts unearthed from the excavations can be seen at the National Museum in Khartoum. Perhaps the most outstanding among them are the wall paintings from Faras Cathedral, one of Nubia’s gems. Unfortunately the human faces have been excised from some of them. And since these archaeological remains were found by a Polish team, a portion of the wall paintings were taken to Warsaw where we know at least that they have survived intact. Said to have been built originally by pharaohs Tuthmose III and Hatshepsut, ancient Egypt’s first woman ruler, the reconstructed ancient temples in the museum garden are astounding. A recent large-scale robbery at the museum has resulted in greater attention to security now. And the exterior of the museum is an order of magnitude more impressive than the interior.

‘BAMIA BAMIA’ AND ‘TABRIHANA’

Whenever I write about a city in Africa, people expect me to discuss their strange food. In Khartoum, in the city at least, the food is not much different from the usual international fare. The restaurants along the Nile serve mostly chicken and fish dishes and the prices are neither expensive nor cheap. Among the Sudanese dishes you should try Machi, a dish with beef and tomatoes, and Bamia Bamia, which is made with lamb. The lamb dishes are very tasty but more expensive than the others. Of the non-alcoholic beverages, the one I can recommend is the frequently served ‘Tabrihana’. If you find there are also restaurants serving Turkish, Indian and Lebanese cuisine in the city.

THE PEARL OF EAST AFRICA

This city needs to be viewed without preconceptions. As you tour the city and talk with the people, you should also remember that Khartoum does not mean Sudan, and you must keep this in mind if you travel to other parts of the country. Khartoum is a city with an air unique unto itself, a city on the brink of modernization, an inter-cultural hotchpotch, an economically growing city caught between east and west, smack dab in the middle of the multifarious cultures of Africa. A city you should stop by if you happen to be passing through east Africa, if nothing else to see the museum and to shed your prejudices.

Lagos

By zeynep Heyzen Ateş

(Skylife -2004)

Nigeria’s leading city, Lagos offers a unique and energized experience with its friendly people, colorful markets, busy street life and striking contrasts.

Lagos today is regarded as Africa’s largest metropolis, which isn’t surprising considering its close to twenty million population, its rapidly developing structure and its streets flowing with life 24/7. Lagos, with its African rhythms rising from every corner, the unusual human landscapes that surround you on all sides, and its definitely not-to-be-missed market places, sits on one of the world’s most mysterious continents. It must be said however that this city differs slightly from the image of Africa most people carry around in their minds. The sheer density of traffic in the street, for example, will shock most newcomers, and seeing traditional market places side by side with giant outdoor shopping strips may strike those who picture an arid and under-developed Africa as strange at first. But it is precisely this cosmopolitan atmosphere in the heart of the African continent that gives the city its own unique aesthetic.

THE PEOPLE MAKE THE CITY

Lagos has a lot in common with other very big and crowded cities: impossible traffic, large poor neighborhoods and areas where nobody should wander alone at night. When discovering Lagos we therefore recommend, for both safety and comfort, that you hire a private chauffeur through one of the hotels. This way you will also gain a reliable companion. What’s more, you can tour the city at your leisure without being bound by a hard fast schedule. But to get a real insight into what is the heart of the city you must stroll through the people-packed narrow lanes and markets of Lagos Island, one of Africa’s most frantic and densely packed pedestrian districts and the city’s oldest quarter, and wander through its markets. At first glance the streets appear to be one massive market. On further inspection, you soon realize that each section is selling one kind of product. The sights here include the Oba’s Palace, the National Museum and a few examples of Brazilian architecture.

Some cities become even more attractive through the people who live there, their outlook and their approach to you. Lagos is one of those cities. From street vendors to bank tellers, just about everyone here is going to be friendly.

Like the rest of Nigeria, Lagos doesn’t have a great deal in the way of architecture or old buildings. Still, the colonial-type buildings left from the period when the British were here stand out both for their architecture and for their role in the nation’s history. One of the most attractive is the National Museum on Awolowo Avenue, near Tafava Balewa Square, which is open every day. The Museum houses numerous exhibits of Nigeria’s ancient civilizations, including some famous bronze and terracotta sculptures. Guides are available for a small fee but everything is labelled reasonably clearly so it’s easy enough to wander around by yourself. One of the most important displays is of the Benin bronze plaques that once adorned the royal palace at Benin City. At the back of the museum are a couple of craft huts selling interesting wood carvings. You can find very beautiful gift items here for your friends with a special interest in African culture. Awolowo Avenue, where the museum is located and where you will also find all the good bookshops, is one of Lagos’s most beautiful areas. This avenue, with its fashionable boutiques and pricey restaurants, also boasts a number of embassies. If you have time, the Musical Society of Nigeria Centre (MUSON), just opposite the museum, in its well-kept gardens laid out in the style unique to West Africa is a must-see.

THE SALT AIR

It wouldn’t be right to speak of Lagos and not mention the sea. Lagos Harbor is the biggest and busiest in Africa, and hundreds of ships and tankers line up out to sea waiting to unload their cargos or be pumped full of oil at the Apapa Docks to the south of Lagos Island. Of course, Lagos Island is not all there is to Lagos. You couldn’t be regarded as having done the city justice, for example, without seeing Ikoyi and Victoria Island. There is no noticeable border between the Lagos Island and Ikoyi except for a tangle of flyovers. Ikoyi lacks the frantic atmosphere and teeming streets of Lagos Island, but it does offer some shops and restaurants. And the city’s most expensive and exclusive shops are also located here in southwest Ikoyi. Falomo Bridge connects Ikoyi with Victorian Island (VI for short), which is the location of many hotels, banks, offices, embassies, useful shops, and the best of Lagos’s restaurants. Unlike Lagos Island or Awolowo Road, there’s little sense in walking around here as everything is spread out. Bar Beach is a very popular strand that runs along the south of Victoria Island parallel to Ahmadu Bello Way. Swimming is not recommended here, but you can walk along the shore and enjoy the view. The best public beach near the city is Tarkwa Bay, a sheltered coastline where you can swim safely just six kilometers from the city center.

COLORFUL SHOPPING!

Lagos’s markets are all more colorful than the last. Strolling through Lekki Market, about nine kilometers from Victoria Island, is a favorite pastime in the city on afternoons and weekends. At the same time, you can buy beads, masks, small paintings and various items made of wood as well as fruit, vegetables and fresh fish at Ilasan Market, or Ola Fegushi. If you bargain hard, this can be a cheaper place than other markets or shops in Lagos to buy such items. It’s actually best to go on a weekday, as prices are higher at the weekends when the tourists come. On the way back from the Market, shop at the recently completed Palms Shopping Mall and Entertainment Center, the start of a new era with its modern, 21st century building.

A final warning before we conclude. Credit cards are accepted in very few places in Lagos, but you can easily change euros or dollars into ‘naira’, the Nigerian currency, at one of the many exchange dealers. In short, Lagos is one of the rare African cities that offers visitors both a modern holiday and an experience unique to West Africa, an alternative for those who want to make the acquaintance of a culture that is different from that of the continent’s other regions and from the classical notion of Africa. Lagos is, most certainly, the business gateway to Nigeria and West Africa, a region rich in natural and cultural resources.